Monday, January 21, 2013

Super brief update on my (still) no-longer-African life...

When my father asked last September if I wanted to go to Cancun in January with the family, I admit, I was initially pretty hesitant. Crazy, I know. Not because I didn't want to go hang out on the beach and see awesome Mayan ruins, run in shorts and get a tan. I hesitated because I didn't know how that kind of an experience could fit in to my life as a student of international development; something felt incredibly contradictory about it. Rather than going to a developing nation to get to know a community for what it is, we would be going to the tourist "strip" (think Vegas in "Espanglés," the form of English/Spanish spoken to the overwhelming number of tourists that have congregated along a 24km strip of some of the biggest, most impressive resorts and hotels I have ever seen). After being assured that we would explore ancient Mayan ruins and spend time on some of the paths less traveled, I agreed, telling myself that we would at least be supporting the economy, right? Plus, when I tried to think about what I wanted from my winter vacation, all I could think of was paid work with no school work and complete relaxation. Perfect.
We returned from an amazing week in Cancun late on Friday night and although I found being treated as a tourist rather disagreeable, there really was no other way to do it. We did have a wonderful chance to explore several sites of Mayan ruins (Tulum and Coba), wander around (and literally get lost in) Downtown Cancun, snorkel, cliff jump and zip-line at all-inclusive Xel-Ha, and spend hours on the beach and in the ocean. It was my first international trip with my good camera (picasa update to come I hope!) and I realized how nice it would have been to have a DSLR with me in Europe and Africa, but also how amazing it will be in Peru. My Spanish is not as rusty as I'd thought, but I have a long way to go in brushing up before this summer! I'll spare you more of my rambling and sum up: Cancun was amazing. I am so lucky to have been able to spend that week with my family!

The rest of my holiday break was similarly wonderful. I got to work a bunch and relax plenty. My roommate and I hosted several evenings of dinner, games and/or boot hockey at the nearby rink. I found out that I will be in Peru (my first choice) for ten weeks this coming summer, working in the community of Junín with several other students in my graduate program. I spent a day with my grandma organizing her basement. Even though the end of January may be a bit late for reflections on 2012, it was a pretty great year, full of transitions and changes, new people and friendships, and a few disappointments and challenges. With the exception of a day in Canada, it was the first year since 2007 I have spent entirely in the U.S. It was a year of beginning to realize what I want to do with the next chapter of my life, and (for once) really feeling like I'm in the right place for me.
Second semester begins tomorrow, and even though I'm not particularly looking forward to the piles of pages to read and write, I think it will be nice to have a bit more of a set schedule. I've never dealt with transitions very well - today is rough just anticipating the semester, but by the time next week rolls around, I'll be totally fine with being back in class. Somehow I managed to avoid scheduled class on Fridays AND Mondays (though one of my classes is online, so that will likely intrude on Mondays). I'm hoping to be able to keep working a couple days each week and train for a few races this spring as well - nothing as time-consuming as marathon training last summer/fall, but I need running like I need sleep, so it'll definitely have a place in my life.
Time now to make sure all my notebooks and pens are ready for another semester. I hope 2013 finds you well! Love from the frigid north!

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Hello again...


Okay, okay, so I'm not in Africa anymore... I sure do miss it though.
I've been home for almost 10 months now (where does the time go?!), and my life has changed (a lot), but I think about my time in Africa frequently, and miss it terribly. I can give a quick update on life since I last posted (I read through it - what a crazy sensation: I was in Cape Town preparing to leave)... Here's a (very) brief update on life since then:
Winter 2011-2012:
The holidays were wonderful. Truly there is nothing better than being at home for the holidays. To be with my family again, going through all the old traditions, making cookies and lefse... was perfection. I was disappointed at the lack of snow, but I got my fill in February when, after being home for over a month, I decided to leave again. This time I crossed no oceans, and only 3 time-zones. I got my fill of snow and winter in Alaska, saw parts of Washington State and the lovely Orcas Island (and even made it to Canada, eh?!), and concluded my west coast adventure tour in San Francisco. All this reaffirmed that I love traveling... I just don't think I'm meant to be stationary in a place for too long at this point in my life. Too much to see and do!
Spring/Summer 2012:
I started working a couple jobs in March, tutoring math and selling running shoes. It was really nice to have some sort of structure (and income!) in my life again. A friend and I found a place to live and signed the lease for June. I signed up to run the Twin Cities Marathon with an ambitious goal and, with the intense training plan help from a coworker, trained hard all summer.
Fall 2012:
School started! I was accepted to the Masters in Development Practice (MDP) in International Development program at the University of Minnesota (which is good, because it's the only place I applied). We've been in class since Labor Day and even though my stress level has gone through the roof, I am loving it. I'm still working at the running store (which I love); my coworkers are awesome and the bosses treat us fantastically.
Even though the MDP program is different from my background in math, I am seriously loving it. It's a completely new way to learn, and I'm re-learning how to learn. There's something really wonderful about being a student again (but it's definitely not the homework). There are so many opportunities to attend talks and symposiums in such a variety of topics. It's also been great to be around like-minded people. The other students in my cohort have such a spectrum of backgrounds and experiences; I have so much to learn from them in addition to the pages and pages of text we read.

I'm going to end this for now, but anticipate writing again soon - I've missed it as a way to keep track of my life, and keep in touch (although indirectly) with friends and family.
Love from Minneapolis (doesn't quite have the same ring... )
-K

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Farewell, Africa!

My last post from Africa.
What an incredible two years and a fantastic vacation.

Updates from last time:
I completed my graduate school application - University of Minnesota's Masters in Development Practice program... it felt so good to get that submitted! It was pretty neat being able to write about my experiences in Lesotho for something other than a blogpost. I now have to wait for a month or two to find out, but I think I'll be pretty busy readjusting to life at home, so it certainly won't preoccupy my mind.

On Thursday I went driving around the Cape Point peninsula with friends - Kalk Bay, nice beaches, Chapman's Peak and Cape Point (not necessarily in that order though). The first time I was here we drove down to Cape Point but, as cheap PCVs, opted not to go all the way to the point. This time we just did it. It was beautiful. Every once in a while along the drive to the point we'd see an ostrich neck and head popping up, looking around - they are so funny looking. No babboons but plenty of seagulls and even a couple seals.

That evening, I went out with (and stayed with) the girls on Long Street. Just another great part of Cape Town - very fun and I'm glad to have spent time on Long again. Then Friday (my last full day in Africa), I went around town, shopping for gifts for friends and souvenirs for myself. The vendors are so anxious to sell their wares, making friendly conversation... "Where are you from? How long have you been in Africa? ..." etc. They all seemed pretty impressed I'd been there so long and promised they were giving me the "African price," though I'm sure I still paid way too much for the stuff. On the minibus taxi back to Obs (where I've been staying), I apparently landed in the wrong seat. About five minutes after we started driving, people in the back started poking me in the back with their money and saying things in strange accents (the places they intended to get off the taxi). Usually in Lesotho I recognize the destinations but here I had no clue. I looked and felt like a tourist, but it was pretty funny.

Last night my gracious host and two other friends and I went to a beach to watch the sun set over Signal Hill. Stunning. I was pretty close to tears sitting there thinking back on my week and past two years, knowing it'd be my last evening in Africa for a while. Though Africa isn't perfect, it has become my home and I am really truly very sad to be leaving it without knowing when I may return. I've learned so much about myself and would not be the person I am today without it (I realize it sounds hokey, but it has never been more true). I love this place so much.
Almost time to finalize packing my bags and get a taxi to the airport... cross your fingers I make it on the flight tonight, then I'll be in Atlanta tomorrow morning and home in time for Sunday dinnner!
Thanks again for your love and support, sending my last bit of love from Africa...
-K

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Katie Shepard, RPCV

Greetings from Cape Town!
Last week Thursday (December 8th) I earned my R and my pin and became an RPCV (the R is for returned). That afternoon I left Lesotho for Bloemfontein to catch a bus to Cape Town.
I cannot believe my two years of service are over. They flew and dragged at the same time... so many ups and downs - even a few sideways - and finally I'm done in Lesotho. Really, words don't do the rollercoaster I've been on these two years any justice.

My last few weeks at site were pretty unbelievable. I felt like everything fell into place. I somehow managed to pack up, sell or give away all my belongings. Even selling and donating most of my clothes, it was a struggle to fit everything from my African life into my massive suitcase and backpack. The photos came down from my walls, leaving my house incredibly empty. I got rid of most of my American things and packed my many memories from my travels in Lesotho, South Africa, Mozambique, Swaziland and Tanzania.

My time in Cape Town has been very refreshing. I've been able to relax in a place that is not much like my life in Lesotho or the States. On Monday some friends and I did a wine tour and even though Mom and I did that tour when she was here in June, it was beautiful to see the vineyards in the summer (and nice to taste the wine again too!).

My flight out of Johannesburg is now scheduled for this Saturday (the stand-by numbers didn't look good for today or the rest of the week so I switched it to stay in Cape Town a while longer) and I'm crossing my fingers that they have a seat for me! For the rest of my time here I'll continue my relaxation stint, eat more delicious sushi, probably taste some more wine and just generally enjoy being on this crazy continent.
Thanks for all your reading support these past two years - I'll try to do a big post again at some point but for now my mind has been focused on my graduate school application, not so much on my blog!
Love from Africa,
-Katie

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

November

I can't believe today is the 1st of November already. Really, where has the time gone?
Last weekend I hosted several friends for my second annual Halloween weekend... it was considerably smaller than last year, but at this point in my service, I think it was the perfect size. We had mexican food - tons of beans, piles of rice, a loaf of cheese, veggies and guacamole. I'm pretty pleased with my ability to make a solid mexican meal... all from scratch. It'll be so much easier in the States where beans come in cans, tortillas come in packages... and the cheese comes pre-shredded!

My birthday was also last week. While celebrating almost any holiday in Africa is slightly strange (seasonal differences and lack of friends/family), it was a pretty good birthday. I taught my two classes (Wednesdays are nice, light days), went on a run, did my laundry, read some book and watched a movie. Nothing too extravagant but definitely enjoyable. A couple of my close Basotho friends at school sang me "Happy Birthday" (they know the song here, too!) and told me they'd have my present the next day. I assured them I didn't need anything but they insisted. On Monday morning (aka Thursday, in African time), they came to my house to present me with a ceramic plate, painted with a Mosotho woman carrying her baby toward their home, and the word Lesotho. It is absolutely beautiful and will come home with me for sure. (It even came with a stand to hold it up so I can proudly display it in America!)
Not too much else new has been going on. The weather is beautiful - sun almost every day except for the occasional windy and gray day. We haven't seen any real rain yet, which is going to be a HUGE problem for farmers and everyone else here. Usually by this time, we're well into the rainy season with a couple rainy days each week, but the weather has only been teasing us. It'll be really cloudy with wind, sometimes it even smells like rain, but then it may sprinkle, or it may just move on. The upside of that is that the mosquitoes haven't really come out yet, but there are enough flies to make up for it. The lack of rain is still very disappointing; I'm hoping for at least one good scary thunderstorm before I leave.
I'm still teaching, my students (I hope) are still learning... I'm definitely still missing home. In fact, it almost seems worse now that I only have just over 5 weeks left... It feels like the last stretch of a marathon, where you can see the finish and you know how far you've come, but you're just not there yet. I can envision myself landing in the Twin Cities (projected date: December 19th, possibly earlier) and coming down the escalator to see my family waiting for me... but that won't happen for a month and a half, and I have SO much to do in the meantime.
I've been selling some clothing items and some kitchen items but still have a long way to go before my belongings will all fit into two suitcases and a carry-on. A friend is coming this weekend to run and help me (hopefully finish) the paintings that were started 3-4 years ago by the first volunteer here... It shouldn't be too challenging since we'll just be redoing what she did, but for some reason it has taken me a long time to get the motivation to just go out there and do it. I've managed a couple coats of white, but there's still plenty to paint. I'm hoping to involve some students who did the project with her initially (that'd be a nice touch, don't you think?)
Today's lunch was samp, which I just can't stomach anymore. Most of the other teachers here are also tired of it, so I told them we'd have American lunch today: peanut butter and jelly sandwiches! I let them make their own (since everyone likes different pb:j ratios) and even though they totally skimped on the peanut butter, everyone thought they were a treat. Success!
Time now to go get ready for my afternoon class and reclaim whatever is left of the PB and J. Hope all is well at home (or wherever else you may be)... I'll be home for Christmas!!!
Love from Lesotho,
-Katie

Thursday, October 13, 2011

One Thing I'll Miss...

Hey all,
I just wanted to post this story while I'm thinking about it (aka before I forget).
Yesterday afternoon the kids came. These are the most adorable Basotho children in my village; they come to my house after school is over to color with crayons or play with the bladder of a destroyed soccer ball, depending on the day. Yesterday it was four girls and they wanted to color and draw with pencils. I got out new pencils for each of them and grabbed my sharpener, a fancy "machine" that holds the shavings in a little plastic compartment, which you then empty. They all had sharp pencils and had drawn some lovely scribbles. After I had marked their drawings and given them stickers (as is our unspoken agreement), one little girl wanted to resharpen her pencil. Two of them got into a little tiff and soon the pencil sharpener had fell to the ground and popped open, scattering pencil shavings all over my porch. The little one began crying so I came out to show her it was fine - the sharpener was certainly not broken. She didn't seem to care about that; she was more concerned that my porch was dirty, so I grabbed my broom so she could sweep if she wanted to.
(Note: Basotho brooms are just small bundles of straw; they have to bend over to sweep. I got an upright broom when I first got here because I very much dislike bending over to sweep... I'm too tall)
The broom was at least twice as big as she was... another of the girls grabbed the broom and proceeded to sweep my entire porch, even under my bench and mat, giggling the whole time.
The little one (Reitumetse) had stopped crying and started giggling too (and there is nothing more adorable than a small child's giggle)... meanwhile the one sweeping started telling me, "M'e Katie, Rethabile (the one who had knocked the sharpener out of Reitumetse's hands) is a FOOOOOT!" I looked at her, pretty confused at what she meant by that; I pointed to my foot. She shook her head and repeated: "Rethabile is a FOOT!" Finally, Rethabile stepped in to defend herself and correct Papali. "No, 'M'e Katie, Papali is a FOOOOL." Oh. Fool. Of course. But this wasn't what Papali had in mind either... "No, Madam, Rethabile is a FOOOOD."
Even now, I'm not sure what any of them meant, but it was pretty cute.
Love from Lesotho,
-Katie

Monday, October 10, 2011

Farewell and Swaziland

With less than two months to go, I find myself experiencing a range of emotions I don’t even understand. I’m excited to start selling things but nervous about how much packing room I’m going to have. I’m ready to be done teaching but now is the time that matters most for students – they need to pass their year-end exams or they have no chance at passing their grade. It’s practically summer so all I want to do is be outside but I can’t (duh); I have to teach. Most of all, I’m ready to go home, but I realize how much I’m going to miss this place and these people.

Two weeks ago was the farewell party for the external students who will be leaving us next year because hopefully they’ll be moving on to one university or another. Lots of preparations were made all day Wednesday: cleaning, cooking, sound-checking (because there was electricity at this year’s farewell!) and everything else you can imagine. Wednesday evening teachers and students were up late cooking chicken and pork (from the recently slaughtered pig from our piggery), making chaka-laka and the traditional ginger drink.
On Thursday morning, it was rainy but the teachers played the students in soccer anyway. I hadn’t played in a very long time but laced up my oldest tennis shoes and threw on a jersey… if it hadn’t been for the students on the teachers team, they would’ve completely decimated us. As it was, they beat us I think 3-1, but it was great fun. It always amazes me how much the boys of my Form A and B classrooms become men on the field.
After a quick bath and a rushed attempt to write a farewell speech fit for the entire school, I headed up to the hall for the farewell ceremony to begin. As an outgoing teacher, it was also my farewell. Many students participated: singing, dancing, reciting poems, acting out dramas and giving speeches.
When it came time for my speech, I was incredibly nervous. I have been speaking in front of 40 people every day for the past 2 academic years but now it was closer to 400 with all the teachers, students and guests. I talked about how I had no idea what to expect from Sekameng: what the students would be like, how the teachers would be, what my house and village and school would be like… and then how impressed I’d been with everything. Students care about their work, and teachers and students care immensely for each other. The school is really a great place. I ended by urging them to continue working hard and thanking them all for a wonderful two years. It was a simple speech so I’m hoping everyone understood my English (ha).
I managed to make it through my speech without crying (which surprised me), but several speeches later, I was called up to the stage again. The students I’d applied with for a tuition scholarship wanted to thank me, or so the MC announced. When I reached the stage, they had a very large envelope and a funny-shaped bag. One of the students pulled a large handmade card from the envelope and read it out loud: “We shall miss you for your support and love. Thank you for everything. Wherever you go, whatever you do, our prayers shall follow you. Best of luck and God bless you” and they listed their names. Then, from the bag, they pulled out a Basotho hat. They explained that they had combined resources to thank me by giving me the hat. At that point, I lost it. These were some of the brightest, most needy students who had contributed money to thank ME. I gave them all hugs and sat down, smiling and still wiping my eyes. It was one of the most generous gifts I think I’ve ever received.
After the ceremony was lunch (at 4pm) and we all feasted before the post-meal entertainment: a beauty pageant. This beauty pageant was honestly one of the most ridiculous things I think I’ve witnessed in Africa. There were maybe 7 or 8 girls entered and they had to strut and pose and dance in front of the whole school and a handful of judges. They dressed up in their street clothes and for one of the categories even got to wear a very fancy formal dress. Maybe it was because I’d seen so much of the rehearsals the days prior, but I didn’t watch much of this pageant. Afterwards, they kept the sound system going for a massive dance party. From what I could tell, the students really enjoyed the farewell.
The next morning however, all the previous day’s fun came back to bite us… all. Everyone who had eaten anything at the farewell was running to the toilet. Repeatedly. Teachers, students, staff, guests… my stomach didn’t calm down until late in the afternoon. Looking back, its pretty funny, but at the time we were all miserable.

On Saturday I left for Swaziland to visit PCV friends there (who I met on vacation in Mozambique). It was an incredibly long day of travel: we crossed the border shortly before 6am, left for Joburg at 7am, arrived in Jozi about noon and were on the way to Mbabane by 1pm. The travel gods were smiling down on us – no problems in Johannesburg and the taxi for Swaziland left very soon after we all piled in. We reached Mbabane by 5:30, our hostel by 6, dinner arrived about 7:30 and we all conked out at 8:30.
The next day we parted ways; I went with PC-Swazi and my travel companions went their own way. We relaxed another day in Mbabane, cooked a tasty Mexican meal and enjoyed one more hot shower before camping in the Ngwempisi gorge the next day. There were 7 of us total staying at a tree-house for grown-ups, as we called it. It was an awesome open-air lodge/hostel place built in and around a massive boulder. There were beds to sleep 16, a kitchen, and several areas to have bonfires. Possibly the greatest part was the toilet and shower. They were situated around the boulder so there was privacy, even without a door. While sitting on the toilet or standing in the shower, you could look out and see the river valley and the many hills in the distance. Truly stunning.
On Tuesday we went hiking down to the river, across the river, and on a barefoot death hike to one of the most disappointing hot springs I’ve ever seen. Except the barefoot part across little burs and sharp twigs (which was the death hike – our feet hurt so bad!), it was really amazing. Crossing the river was a bit scary as the current was fairly strong in places, but the cool water was refreshing, and thankfully there were no crocodiles. The hike back up was difficult but only because our trail-blazers were practically flying… no “pole pole” like on Kilimanjaro! That night we sat around the fire and ate dinner before going to bed very early.
We were up and out pretty early the next morning… into Matsapha for pizza at a great place called “The Italian Job” … probably the best pizza I’ve had in Africa (other than my own homemade, of course). Then, because of planned protests in Mbabane and Manzini the next day, I went with Megan to her site for a few nights. We reminisced about Minnesota (and America in general), did massive amounts of laundry and walked around her community – a very nice place. Her family was very sweet and gave me the Swazi name “Nomaswazi” which I’m told means Swazi girl… I learned greetings in Siswati and really enjoyed seeing how another PCV in another country lives. Plus the volunteers there are awesome – we’ve hung out together in 3 different countries now!
My last night, we went back to Mbabane so I could leave early the next morning… we tried to make black bean burgers but they turned out terribly. First, we had to use lentils instead of black beans. Second, we burned the lentils. Third, we made sangria. All in all, a very fun night and a good way to exit with a bang.
Traveling all the way back to Lesotho wasn’t difficult, just long. My head hurt, my stomach hurt, and I didn’t want to drink too much water for fear of stopping the taxi every hour to use the bathroom. Oh, Africa. I made it back to Lesotho sort of late, but I found a friend crossing the border to share a taxi with to my destination so it worked out just fine.
I got to site on Sunday afternoon, unpacked, had a snack and fell asleep almost instantly… until 1am. My afternoon nap turned into almost 16 hours of blissful sleep before teaching again this morning!
Other than all of that, not too much new to report. I’m looking into possibilities for jobs or grad programs after I get home but it’s really daunting… One day at a time!
Love from Lesotho,
-Katie