Yesterday was a frustrating day. Actually, it just involved a
really frustrating few hours, between 5:30pm (when I was almost home after a
long day) and 7pm (when I got to where I was meeting a few friends for dinner).
One wouldn’t think that much could happen in 90 minutes, but hey, this is
Kenya.
I’d turned off the main road I use on my way home, and
greeted my neighbor, commenting that rain looked imminent (as it often does in
the afternoons, if it’s not already raining). A few steps later, a young man
(probably mid-late 20s) had approached me, “Hey, white woman!” I’m not sure if
this was merely him trying to prove that he was above calling out “Mzungu,” (“European,”
but more commonly used for any “white person”) or what, but I wasn’t especially
impressed. I responded with something along the lines of, “What, black man?” He
laughed and launched into a huge introduction, explaining his name, and then
gave me this spiel about how he was an author and an artist, and he had been
following me for a while because he really wanted to talk to me, but not around
all the people who were on that main road, and he likes having friends from
other cultures and backgrounds because he likes learning, and blah blah blah. Then
it was, “So can we continue this conversation sometime?” to which I responded
“Maybe.” Perhaps leaving it open like this was my first mistake, perhaps it was
my third or fourth; looking back, I’m still not sure. He persisted, and in very
good English (for which I had to give him some credit). I was pretty tired, and
apparently my judgment was impaired and after we talked (read: he talked at me)
some more, ended up giving out my phone number (which I ended up immediately
regretting, and regretting some more later on down the line). Dumb. Dumb, dumb,
dumb. He kept talking probably another ten minutes before I managed to convince
him I was done with the conversation and wanted to go home and rest (and have
my afternoon/pre-dinner snack! I was getting hangry). He insisted we would meet
again. I guarantee we will not.
I made it home, greeted the dogs (the two who were around
and happy to see me), had some yogurt and sat down to relax and look through
some articles to maybe send to some of our interns. Got a text from a friend
asking if I wanted to meet up for dinner… Sigh of relief because it wasn’t that
guy I had just encountered; yes of course, dinner would be great.
I then made the mistake of leaving my house before
confirming mealtime, and when I got the second text message, I was probably
halfway from my house to the restaurant with 30 minutes to spare. I turned around
and headed back towards home, figuring I would just wait around outside along
the road/my driveway and watch the colors in the sunset (which was really
pretty!).
A couple guys came up the hill and started talking to me. Sure
enough, within a few minutes, they too had asked for my name and number. This
one was a much more obvious “no,” and after assuring me we would meet again, they
eventually went on their merry way. Sidenote: One of my favorite responses to
the question, “So, can you give me your numbers?” has become, “Why? What are
you going to do with my phone number?” Usually I get something along the lines
of, “So I can greet you!” You’re talking to me right now, dude, and I’m not
convinced I want you to greet me.
I stood on a big rock and watched the sky for a while, then decided
to see if there was a better view down the hill a little ways, and of course (with
my luck) there was a man walking up the hill, talking on his phone. I
acknowledged him politely (greetings are pretty important here) as we passed
one another, and he continued slowly up the hill. Once I realized that the best
view was in fact going to be on the top of the hill (actually on the rock I’d
been standing on earlier), I went back up. “Madam, are you lost?” I explained
to him I was watching the sky because I like sunsets. “Ah, then I think you can
help me. You see, I am looking for a wife from the other side…” (“The other
side” can mean many things; in this case, it meant he was looking for an
American wife, and believed I would help him). He too introduced himself, and assured
me he was Bernard Lagat’s brother-in-law (HAH, I’m sure), and that he had
family in Texas, and that he had applied for a green card, but if I could only
help him find a wife, it would be much easier for him. At this point I had to
start walking to dinner (and I was getting rather tired of these encounters),
so I sucked it up and walked with him for a while before turning off.
The sky had started getting darker, and while I knew I had
enough time to get to dinner, I started walking at a more American pace (I was
done talking to people, plus it was cooling down, and I was trying to stay
warm). I passed a man carrying a big stick (reminded me of the ones Basotho
commonly carried – and occasionally beat students or cattle with – in Lesotho).
I was fully intending to ignore him, but he greeted me in solid English, so I
responded, and in trying to be friendly (mistake), asked why he was carrying
the cane. Turns out, it belonged to his grandmother who he had just visited in
the hospital, and he was carrying it home. I had passed him, but he started
walking faster, though still a few steps behind me. Then came a question I’d
not heard from a Kenyan before: “Do you go to the gym?” I was a bit caught off
guard as there aren’t many gyms around and working out doesn’t seem like a
common thing around here, but I told him that I liked to run (many people have
seen me in my neighborhood area, so I wasn’t divulging any grand secrets). “I
can tell, because your legs look very sexy and strong.” Perfect. I’m in long
pants and a sweater (not even the skirt I’d worn to work!), and this is the
attention I’m getting. UGH. Ignore it: “Okay, goodnight sir.” I’d reached my destination and could not have
been more relieved to enter the gate.
(Naturally now, sitting at my desk and fuming again, I can
think of a handful of much better responses to that comment: “My legs are strong – watch out or I’ll kick you
where it hurts,” or “I hope you didn’t plan on having kids”… )
Dinner was great. Good to see friends and unwind a bit,
reminisce about life back home, and we even made plans to go hiking one of
these weekends.
After I got home I checked my phone, only to find one missed
call and four very long text messages from the first guy who approached me
several hours earlier. He had just wanted to hear my voice, and say goodnight
to me in person, but in lieu of that, felt like writing two novels would
suffice (I think my favorite part was the last line of the last text where he
asked for my name, because he had been too busy earlier talking about himself
to actually ask anything about me).
Apple and iPhones for the win – there is a “Block this
Number” option. Check plus.
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Unfortunately, as I have come to understand first through Lesotho, and now Kenya, this is part of being a white woman in Africa. I don’t
love it. In fact, I really struggle with it. Some of my closest friends at home
are male (duh), but for the most part, as a woman, I just don’t have that
option here. And that sucks. Many people from home have been asking if I’ve
made friends since I’ve been here. I definitely have, but this gives some insight
as to why (for now, anyway) they seem to either be the young women in the
office, or other expats in the area.
Fine and you? Miss you Katie! You have a way of describing the joys and frustrations of life in Africa that really resonates/puts me right back there... If nothing else your eventful afternoon made one rpcv feel very nostalgic in an oddly not unpleasant way.
ReplyDeleteBoom! Thanks! It's really not the same without other volunteers here, no kloofing or bumslides this time, but I'm glad you're enjoying the experiences vicariously! :)
DeleteGreat to hear this perspective--sad that it's what's going on! Keep those legs strong and maybe practice some crotch-high kicks.
ReplyDelete